Balancing Refinement and Manliness : A Beauty Formula for Men’s Social and Professional Success

Hird, Derek (2024) Balancing Refinement and Manliness : A Beauty Formula for Men’s Social and Professional Success. Nan Nü: Men, Women and Gender in China, 26 (1). pp. 114-143. ISSN 1387-6805

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Abstract

This article discusses the difficult balancing act between refinement and manliness that male beauty vloggers seek to perform, in the context of shifting ideals of masculinity in China’s modern history. It examines several techniques that male beauty vloggers promote as a non-feminising aesthetics, which enable young men to gain social prestige and professional advancement, without being labelled sissies or damaging their heteronormative masculinity in any way. The vloggers’ strategy resonates with attempts in the male cosmetics industry starting in the Republican era to create new masculine ideals that enhance men’s social, sexual and professional appeal, while enabling them to continue to enjoy the benefits of a conventionally acceptable masculinity. At all times, women’s impact on re-shaping male ideals has been significant. The article highlights the argument from both men and women that refined and manly makeup offers the ordinary Chinese man a productive, quick and affordable way to gaining an edge in a highly competitive world. Hybrid and flexible masculinities and the heterosexual matrix provide the main conceptual frameworks for the study.