On the distribution of maximum crest and wave height at intermediate water depths

Schubert, M. and Wu, Y. and Tychsen, J. and Dixen, M. and Faber, M.H. and Sørensen, J.D. and Jonathan, P. (2020) On the distribution of maximum crest and wave height at intermediate water depths. Ocean Engineering, 217: 107485. ISSN 0029-8018

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Abstract

We report new descriptions for the (probability) distributions of hourly maximum crest and wave height of water surface gravity waves for intermediate water depths. Estimated distributions are based on analysis of laboratory-scale measurements at the DHI wave basin. For a given sea state, the distribution of both hourly maximum crest and hourly maximum wave height, normalised by sea state significant wave height, is found to follow a generalised extreme value (GEV) distribution. Variation of the three parameters of the GEV distribution across sea states, is expressed in terms of a response surface model as a function of non-dimensional sea state Ursell number and wave steepness, and wave directional spreading angle. For inference, conventional Monte Carlo wave basin measurements are supplemented with measurements selected by means of a novel “pre-selection” sampling scheme using numerical simulations. This scheme effectively guarantees that extreme events from tails of distributions are produced, and reduces uncertainties associated with the estimated distributions. Estimation is performed using Bayesian inference, allowing uncertainties to be quantified, and providing estimates of posterior predictive tail distributions for sea states with arbitrary characteristics within the domain of sea state characteristics covered by the model.